5/2/2023 0 Comments The white door santoriniNow operating as luxury accommodation, they offer their guests the atmosphere of a bygone era. Its most beautiful mansions, such as Villa Ioulia and Zannos Melathron – both built at the end of the 19th century by the rich ship owner and wine merchant Michalis Zannos – have been restored in exemplary fashion. It is, however, only in the last ten years that – thanks to this nucleus of permanent residents and friends who are concerned about its medieval heritage – Pyrgos has embarked on the path of mild and controlled tourist development. Vassilis, the other son, is an architect who undertakes new builds but also oversees restoration projects that respect the architectural identity of the area. He also owns Crossroad, an antiques store and art gallery that is counted among the finest in the Cyclades. Lefteris, who studied archaeology in London, runs the first-class Voreina Suites Hotel while simultaneously overseeing the digitization of Santorini’s historical and photographic archives. “We operate an exhibition space and an information center on the main square, we manage the village library and historical archives, and we offer help to students who get into university.Īll of this we do with our own funds and with donations from friends of the village.” His own two sons serve the common cause as well. Founded in 1949 but later falling dormant for a number of years, the society has, under the leadership of its current president, Makis Zorzos, been rejuvenated and now hosts dozens of cultural events, while also offering dance, music and theater lessons to teenagers and young children. The local cultural society supports these civil efforts wholeheartedly. Pyrgians love Pyrgos, and this becomes evident to our visitors.” Darzentas goes on to show me an intricate pebble mosaic that paves the yard in front of the church: “This too, we made with our hands.” All of us who are able, offer money, time and effort. Our businesses are modest and down to earth, and people care about the environment and maintaining the architectural profile of the village. “People in Pyrgos have not yet been corrupted by tourism money. “What we’re trying to instill in young people is the idea that only with love and affection for our land and its history, and with solidarity within the community, can we ever guarantee the future of the village and the preservation of its monuments and churches – all the things that attract visitors,” explained Giorgos Darzentas, president of the village council. Black plastic bags, disposable gloves and bottled water from the square were handed out as everybody worked in good spirits – mission accomplished! Shortly afterwards, a crowd of local people and friends of the island, including parents with their young children, rolled up their sleeves and cleaned the castle in preparation for Easter. The historic Church of the Presentation of the Virgin Mary ( 1660), one of Santorini’s largest and most important places of worship, was welcoming the faithful for the first time after a lengthy restoration: its masterful pulpit and intricate woodcarved altarpiece have been fully restored after centuries of wear and tear. It is a fact, however, that on Palm Sunday, as I was going up to the top of the medieval Kasteli (castle), I was overcome with emotion. For some, it’s that the villagers are more cultivated and more united among themselves, while for others, it’s that its location has kept the village relatively untouched – at least for now – by the tourist industry that is flourishing on the island. Its charm is different: more subdued, less picture-perfect, little advertised.Īsk the locals what the difference is between Pyrgos and the rest of the island in terms of social profile, and you’ll get conflicting answers. Pyrgos is not swamped by sunset spotters, nor is it the first choice among the hordes of cruise-ship passengers. Yet, located that bit further from the famous caldera, it has been spared the terraces, balconies, infinity pools and master suites that adorn the glossy covers of tourist magazines the world over. Strategically built in the heart of the pre-volcanic hinterland and at the foot of Mt Profitis Ilias, Pyrgos affords panoramic views. This is Pyrgos, the largest preserved village on Santorini and the island’s former capital. Regardless of the season, its busiest time is noon, when people gather for ouzo or Santorinian beer accompanied by excellent local meze. The main square, with its tall pine trees and quaint little coffee shops, is the focal point for socializing and entertainment. Here, the pace of life is more relaxed cats stroll in the alleys, families dress up in their Sunday best to go to church, and piano lessons can be heard through the open windows of the cultural society. Just seven and half kilometers south of Fira, a different side of Santorini emerges, an aspect that harkens back to the picturesque Greek villages of yesteryear.
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